Thumper…

January 7, 2015

Amperfy Waterfalls and Lakes

After the Amparaky Geysers, we continued our day trip by heading to Liliha Waterfalls, where the village of Antafofo is found.

The waterfalls were great. It was a short walk from the car park to the falls, over a few rocks, a bridge and then down some stone steps to the base. There was a good volume of water going over, made for a good spectacle.

Liliha Waterfalls, Amperfy

Liliha Waterfalls, Amperfy

The one thing that took the shine off a great day was that as soon as we arrived, we were followed and harassed by young girls and supposedly their teacher, trying to sell us rocks they’d painted themselves. They followed us from the car park to the top of the falls, and then waited for us while we went to the base. From there, they also followed us back to the car, getting increasingly agitated when we didn’t buy anything. They even started telling our driver off because we didn’t buy anything!

Hassled by the girls

Hassled by the girls

At the Liliha waterfalls there’s another track to a further waterfall downstream. It’s about an hour or so return, and by all reports they are also pretty good, but unfortunately we didn’t have time. Would be worth a visit if I ever got back there.

Our lunch stop was on the shores of Kavitaha Lake in Amperfy, a small lake where you could hire a paddle boat or canoe if you had time. The name of the restaurant was the Kavitaha, belonging to the Kavitaha hotel. Unfortunately our meals took over an hour to arrive – an hour we could have spent doing the other waterfall walk perhaps!

Lake Kavitaha, Amperfy

Lake Kavitaha, Amperfy

The menu was in French and our French skills still hadn’t improved too much. I went for the safe option of spag bol, while Ev picked some kind of beef dish. It smelt ok, but on closer inspection it was obviously the tongue of the cow – I was happy to let Ev eat that!

The tongue dish

The tongue dish

Once we’d finally finished lunch, we collected our local guide and had a really nice drive out to the very centre of Madagascar, on the shores of Lake Itasy, marked by a huge statue of the virgin Mary. A short climb to the top gave us a great panoramic view of the region. The lake was so still and the sky so blue bar a few white clouds in the distance. Primarily the volcanic mountains were all fairly dry and we went for a walk from the top of the tower to a little inlet on the shore. A few small fishing canoes paddled quietly around the shore as the men set their nets. There was no breeze, no birds chirping, no people around. Other than our voices it was really quiet. It was so peaceful and warm sitting there on the rocks by the shore, I could’ve stayed there all day.

Setting the nets, Lake Itasy

Setting the nets, Lake Itasy

But it was getting late in the day, so we had to move. Back up the hill, past a few crops growing, the long grass and back to our car. There were a few other people by now who’d come to the statue – apparently many people make an annual pilgrimage there.

Marking the centre of Madagascar, the virgin mary statue

Marking the centre of Madagascar, the virgin mary statue

Our trip home back to Tana was largely uneventful. A traffic accident reminded us again of the dangers of driving around these windy roads – large drops on one side of the road, lack of emergency services if the worst did happen. Not too many oxen and carts on the way home – most had pulled over for the night, but we did have to dodge the drunks. We got back around 8:30pm and a big thanks to our driver who did a great job on our trip and admitted he didn’t like driving at night much, partly because of the risk of violence…

An awesome day, with great scenery that made me go wow. The best day I’d had in Madagascar and made the trip to Madagascar a memorable one. The day was topped off with the excellent cauliflower gratin at the IC Hotel that we’d had every night we’d been there!

Heading to the lake

Heading to the lake

Advertisements

Leave a Comment »

No comments yet.

RSS feed for comments on this post. TrackBack URI

Leave a Reply

Please log in using one of these methods to post your comment:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

Create a free website or blog at WordPress.com.

%d bloggers like this: